The subtle, rounded but rather aromatic perfume of peach skins and apricot compote on the nose is utterly seductive-there is a promise of oriental riches and exotic spice but above all pure, glowing peach fruit. The palate is in total focus: while some residual sugar illuminates every last vestige of fruit, there is guiding central force that never lets this slip into the merely opulent. A masterful tightrope walk amidst plump fruit and mineral precision with a finishing, pleasantly bitter edge of marzipan.

Rich and vibrant, with flavors of peaches and cream, grapefruit granita, Key lime pie, ground anise and candied ginger, all backed by firm acidity and a smoky, minerally underpinning. Full-bodied and intense, this wine needs food or time in the cellar. Best from 2017 through 2030.